It’s a Friday at the beginning of April at the Kaiser Josef Market in Graz, the sun is shining, the crowds are thick, market customers are among the first to welcome the weekend with a glass of South Styrian Sauvignon Blanc, and Johann Lafer may have just passed you by. At the back towards the university district, Alexander Posch sits at one of the tables in his restaurant, where you feel like you are in a train carriage, and enjoys the daily special with his wife and kindergarten child. The cabbage was still nice at the market, so there is salmon trout confit with caramelized cabbage, semolina cream and beurre blanc.
It was moments like these that made him switch from fine dining in the “Goldene Birn” in the posh Park Hotel to the farmers market a year ago, says Posch. Because it is uncomplicated and family-friendly. “It has poor insulation,” he says, looking towards the ceiling, “but it has charm and is fun.” It was never foreseeable that he would earn a Michelin star with this of all things.
“My wife told me on the phone,” says Posch, describing the moment in March. “There’s a star! I say: No, I don’t know anything, and she: Yes, I see it. Then she started crying, and then I.” Posch still doesn’t seem to have fully realized it, but there are clues that help: the star that he had tattooed on his arm the day after under his first cap. The inquiries, the gourmet restaurant on the market is currently fully booked for six to eight weeks. The selfie that a young man is currently asking him to take.
The latter in particular will take some getting used to for him, as the move from the professional kitchen to the tiny market stall of the Graz gastro family Grossauer was an “extreme change” for the chef, and not so much because of the cooking conditions: he also had little space in the Parkhotel. Only when the kitchen brigade from his main restaurant Florian “were away did we have the whole kitchen to prepare”. Rather, “direct human contact is now added,” says Posch. “This is purely an aquarium. It was very tiring at the beginning.” At the same time, he also appreciates the mixed audience. “It’s more family-like, you cook for everyone, whether it’s the student who gets a pizza sandwich or some doctor.”
At this point you might have to briefly explain the concept of the gourmet restaurant, which actually runs two tracks: During the day you can stop here for a quick meal (he has just developed a goose liver cheese, “with marinated red cabbage, mustard mayonnaise and a normal roll”) or just drink a Spritz (in contrast to the 16 seats inside, the outdoor dining area can accommodate 80 people). Posch begins his day between eight and nine in the morning with a tour of the market. Freshness is his top criterion, trading is hardly possible because there are enough “private” buyers. Ongoing experiments then feed the fixed ten-course menu in the evening.
And that worked from the start? “No,” says Posch. “When I started, a lot of regulars from before came here, looked at it, ate it and said: Alex, that’s really good, very nice, but we’ll never come back.” Because: That’s it Yes, really a market stall where other people are constantly walking past…
Conversely, he was received with skepticism on the market. “Now comes the award-winning chef,” it was said, “even within the team, they didn’t really talk to me much in the first week because they wanted to get to know me. But they quickly saw that I also pick up the trash and clear away glasses. But I still can’t collect money.” In the meantime we have pulled ourselves together well. “I taught them why you don’t need flowers at the table if I have a white napkin, and they taught me something humanly: how to talk to guests. Because I just didn’t like that, I always avoided it.”
Cooking itself, says Posch, has become much more relaxed since the award. “Since the star, something has been released in me. I’m only cooking with an apprentice here. It’s confirmation that you can really do it.”
At a glance
Alexander Posch runs the gourmet shop at the Kaiser-Josef-Markt in Graz. The tiny restaurant was named “New Opening of the Year” by Michelin and was given one star. From Thursday to Saturday there is a ten-course market menu in the evening for 135 euros. For those who are unsure, there are five courses for 75 euros on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
This article was originally published on April 14, 2026.
















