Michael Gebicki is Traveller’s expert Tripologist. Each week he tackles the thorny issues in travel as well as answering your questions. Got a question for the Tripologist? Email tripologist@traveller.com.au
I’m taking an extended period to travel in Europe until October and looking at coastal destinations where I can base myself for about two weeks at a time. Any suggestions on some under-the-radar, affordable locations?
L. Stewart, Kew, Vic
My first choice would be the heel of the Italian boot, and specifically the eastern side, south of Otranto. This is a glorious stretch of coast, and the holidaymakers are mostly Italians, which means prices are reasonable.
Another inexpensive option is Albania, but the country is becoming popular with European tourists, and you’d want to avoid the peak months of July and August. Along Albania’s coastline you can lie on a beach with snow-capped mountains as a distant backdrop, dine on figs and olives with air-dried ham at a waterfront cafe, and sleep in a former Byzantine monastery plastered to the side of a cliff.
Hotel and food prices are also reasonable on some of the less popular Greek islands such as Samos, Thassos, Ikaria and Chios, many of them underrated because they haven’t yet been “discovered” by Instagrammers.
Luarca on Spain’s northern Asturias coast is dramatically different from Mediterranean Spain and the coastal towns, some of which still earn a living from the sea, offer excellent value, seafood dishes and a relaxed vibe. You might want to save this for September/October, the Atlantic coast takes time to warm up.
Sign up for the Traveller newsletter
The latest travel news, tips and inspiration delivered to your inbox. Sign up now.
In Portugal, set within the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park, Vila Nova de Milfontes offers stunning beaches where the Mira River meets the Atlantic, a relaxed atmosphere, local seafood and almost no crowds.
Assuming you have an Australian passport and not dual nationality with an EU passport, you will only be allowed to stay in the Schengen zone, which is most of continental Europe, for 90 days in any 180-day period. After your 90 days is up you could relocate to a non-Schengen country such as the UK, Ireland, Albania or Montenegro.
We are on a Baltic cruise in August with port stops at Gdynia, Klaipeda, Riga and Stockholm. There are quite a few options offered by the cruise company for day trips, however, with no knowledge of the areas we are finding it challenging to choose the best option. Any advice on these destinations?
J. Edser, Maitland, NSW
Your port is Gdynia, but the real gem is Gdansk, about 40 minutes away by car. Your visit should include the sights along the Royal Way plus the Court of the Brotherhood of St George, Artus Court, the Crane and the Gatehouse Complex. Also, the European Solidarity Centre, an excellent museum dedicated to the trade union which helped bring about the end of Communist rule in Poland. Klaipeda itself is small, but the real highlight is the Curonian Spit, a narrow sand-dune peninsula and a UNESCO World Heritage Site with high, shifting dunes, pine forests and historic fishing villages.
Riga is easy to explore on foot, and be sure to take in the Old Town, the Art Nouveau district along Alberta Street, Riga Cathedral and St Peter’s Church and the Central Market, housed in hangars formerly used by Zeppelin airships. Stockholm is a spectacular city spread across islands. Take in the cobbled streets and royal palace in the Old Town, the Vasa Museum with its perfectly preserved 17th-century warship, and enjoy walks and ferry rides around the islands.
After disembarking from a cruise in Barcelona in early May next year, my wife and I would like to spend five or so days relaxing within a day’s train ride of Barcelona, in a scenic, coastal location, without hordes of other tourists with great Spanish food and cultural sights.
P. Cochran, Wyndham Vale, Vic
Sitges could be the place for you. On the coast about a 40-minute drive or train trip southwest of Barcelona, it’s a pretty resort town famous for its artistic heritage and the historic old town centred around a seaside church. Sitges is well supplied with tapas bars and Catalan seafood restaurants. The whitewashed old town and the palm-lined seafront promenade are ideal for gentle walks while the Garraf Natural Park is a rugged wonderland of limestone hills if you want more challenging terrain.
However, Sitges is also known for its nightlife, in which case you might prefer Sant Pol de Mar, 50 kilometres to the northeast of Barcelona. Sant Pol de Mar offers easy connections by train with Barcelona, a tranquil atmosphere, a shopping zone with boutiques and artisanal shops radiating from a cobblestoned medieval hub and many dining options including several xiringuitos – casual beach bars – and cafes.
Nearby towns including Calella, Canet de Mar and Arenys de Mar provide culinary and cultural variety. While this is a popular summer resort for locals from Barcelona, in May you should be well ahead of the crowds.
Travel advice is general; readers should consider their personal circumstances
Michael Gebicki is a Sydney-based travel writer, best known for his Tripologist column published for more than 15 years in Traveller. With four decades of experience, his specialty is practical advice, destination insights and problem-solving for travellers. He also designs and leads slow, immersive tours to some of his favourite places. Connect via Instagram @michael_gebickiConnect via email.
