Designer Demna opted to add glamour, eccentricity and rebellion to Gucci in his first truly “personal” collection for the brand.
Demna’s men are hooded bad boys, dressed in tartan-lined jackets or sharp-shouldered suits, pants cut above the ankle and triple-buckle belts with a rock’n’roll touch.
Women travel to the 80s with a touch of eccentricity: classic black suits that reveal the navel, fur coats combined with a scarf or huge furs, all finished with high-heeled boots. Some have a more punk style, with chains around their necks.
“My first year at Gucci was dedicated to understanding and defining what it represents,” Demna explained in a note before the show.
“The conclusion of my research is that Gucci embodies the aspiration to belong to a more glamorous world, as well as the audacity to reshape that world in its own image,” he adds.
For the 45-year-old Georgian designer, “Gucci is a form of luxury that wants to be noticed. It is the tension between good taste and sensuality.”
Sales of the flagship brand of the Kering group (which also includes Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga) have disappointed in recent years, after several prosperous years under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele.
Since the arrival of Demna in 2025 and the presentation of its first two collections, sales continued to decline in the second quarter, although at a less marked pace than in the first, Kering reported at the end of July.
Demna considers that “Gucci evolves with ease between aristocracy and popular culture, (…) between good and bad taste, between legacy and mass desire, between belonging and rebellion.”
A vision that recalls the designer’s years at Balenciaga, where he used to mix sport, luxury and provocation.
