TUDOR has introduced a new addition to the Black Bay 54 line, a tribute to the brand’s first divers’ watch, the Oyster Prince Submariner, in a signature Tudor blue – a nod to a part of the company’s history.
The watch’s sapphire blue dial and bezel are paired with a 37 millimetre case and a manufacture calibre (a high-performance internal engine). The case retains the classic proportions of yesteryear, yet boasts the technical prowess of the company’s modern Manufacture Calibre MT5400 and a 200 metre depth rating.
Its unidirectional bezel is devoid of any graduated hash marks, echoing the watches from the early 1950s when scuba diving was in its infancy, and the company produced a timepiece for those daring enough to engage with the burgeoning sport.
The second watch hand recalls the look of the original with a lollipop design. The ergonomics have evolved as well, with a redesigned crown and bezel, both featuring historical proportions.
Diving into the past
The Black Bay line was conceived with the past in mind, honouring the important designs that laid the foundations of Tudor’s unique aesthetic.
While the collection has always incorporated signature elements of past divers’ watches, the Black Bay 54 is one of the most true-to-form Black Bay watches that has been created thus far.
The original Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922, released in 1954, is a formidable candidate to draw inspiration from, as it has been adopted by the French and United States Navies and was widely used by diving professionals.
The earliest iterations of the watch used a small crown and eschewed the later emblematic red triangle at 12 o’clock for a cleaner, more uniform aesthetic.
In addition to proportional adjustments, the watch hands are pinched at the base, the same way they appeared in the 1954 edition. The bezel’s edge has been redesigned as well, with a modernised take on the ergonomic pattern of the Oyster Prince Submariner.
The Black Bay 54 still features thoroughly modern touches, like a subtle satin radial-brushed dial.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5400 equipped in the Black Bay 54 displays hours, minutes and seconds functions.
It has the finish typical of Tudor Manufacture Calibres: its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openworked and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternating sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.
Its build is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point anchoring.
This system, together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, allows it to operate within a six-second tolerance, tested on the fully assembled watch.
The essence of Black Bay
The watch borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as snowflake from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue.
Its unprotected crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of Tudor divers’ watches.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical rerelease of a classic, it brings together over 70 years of heritage, while being anchored in the present.
It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.
Every Tudor watch is assembled and fully tested at the new Tudor Manufacture facility located in Le Locle, Switzerland.
This new state-of-the-art facility, bringing together the know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction.
All decked out in Tudor red, the factory spans over four levels and is physically and visually connected to the neighbouring Kenissi Manufacture, the Tudor movement production facility founded in 2016.
With Kenissi and a network of Tudor-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres.
A watch for every occasion
From early morning commutes to late evening plans, the watch fits seamlessly into every part of the day and moves with its wearer. It brings together the everyday wearability of the Black Bay 54 with the fresh, modern appeal of its blue dial. The result is a watch that feels grounded in the company’s dive watch heritage while remaining relevant to the rhythm of contemporary life. The 37 millimetre case presents a balanced, effortless presence, with refined proportions that sit neatly beneath a tailored cuff, while the rich blue dial is distinctive enough to hold its own in more casual settings. In the office, it reads as considered and understated, and after hours, it feels relaxed and polished. The watch easily integrates into daily life through travel, work and every moment in between.
The watch is available with either a stainless steel bracelet or a black rubber strap, allowing the wearer to choose the option that best reflects their personal style and preference.
The three-link stainless steel bracelet option has polished and satin finishes, complete with the Tudor T-fit clasp for rapid length adjustment.
In a system that is easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five different positions, it allows wearers to carry out fine, instant adjustments of the length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8 millimetres.
The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure, in addition to a pleasing tactile element.
A black rubber strap option comes in three sizes, complete with the same clasp, and it is able to be cut down to the exact size of the wearer’s wrist. Inside, it features the signature snowflake motif for added grip, and it is form-fitted specifically for the watch.
Another notable feature is that the system has a 70-hour power reserve, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning, without having to wind it, making it ideal for everyday wear and a seamless transition between work and leisure.
Born to dare
In 2017, Tudor launched a new campaign with the “Born To Dare” signature. It reflects both the history of the brand and what it stands for today.
It chronicles the adventures of individuals who have achieved extraordinary feats on land, ice, in the air and underwater, wearing a Tudor watch on their wrists, where their achievements stem from a bold, daring approach to life.
It also refers to the vision of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Tudor, who manufactured the watches to withstand the most extreme conditions.
It is a testimony to the company’s singular approach to watchmaking, which has made it what it is today. At the cutting edge of the watchmaking industry, its innovations are now essential benchmarks.
Tudor offers a five-year guarantee on all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or any periodic maintenance checks to be performed, and is transferable should the watch change ownership during coverage.
Tudor also recommends that its watches be serviced approximately every 10 years, depending on the model and the extent of its use on a day-to-day basis.
Discover the Black Bay collection online or visit the TUDOR boutique by Cortina Watch at Pavilion Damansara Heights.
