Located pretty much in the middle of the Netherlands, Utrecht remains a hub for rail commuters, shoppers, and those willing to climb all the way to the top of the iconic and recently restored Dom Tower.
Is Utrecht the quiet sister among the Randstad’s quintuple metropolitan centres? It never seems to get the same sort of attention showered upon Amsterdam, The Hague and Rotterdam, all of which have an irresistible gravitational pull for tourists.
Nevertheless, Utrecht is packed with history – it dates all the way back to the Stone Age and the Romans spent 250 years there, give or take, while holed up in a fortress they dubbed Traiectum.
Those who visit today will discover a bustling city that mixes history and gorgeous architecture with picturesque canals, a lively cafe culture, and the iconography of one of the world’s most famous cartoon rabbits.
Five things to do
Head to the top of the tower
It’s impossible to miss Dom Tower, the country’s tallest church tower, which looms over the rest of Utrecht like a shepherd minding a flock of sheep. It underwent a five year restoration and reopened to the public last November.
A trek to the top of the 112 metre structure involves climbing 465 steps while contending with groups of school kids, but the views up there are spectacular. The tower’s back story is also fascinating.
A summer storm in 1674 tore apart the nave that once connected it to the Domkerk and another 200 years passed before the rubble was cleared to make way for the square. You can learn about this and more at DOMunder, a nearby attraction that features the foundations of the Traiectum and other archaeological treasures.
Bunny hop over to the Nijntje Museum
Nijntje, who goes by Miffy in many parts of the world, was the creation of hometown hero Dick Bruna, an artist, author, and long-time Utrecht resident. The cartoon bunny has seen her star rise in recent years, largely thanks to her marketing team cleverly embracing social media sites like TikTok and Instagram.
You are bound to encounter Nijntje fans from all around the globe at the Nijntje Museum. Older ones might be disappointed. It’s almost entirely aimed at families and most of the museum’s interactive exhibits are essentially indoor playgrounds.
If you’ve got young children though, it’s a must. Those who love Miffy but are over the age of seven might prefer visiting a recreation of Bruna’s studio at the Centraal Museum across the street, strolling through the Nijntje Pleintje (Miffy Square), or going in search of her traffic light.
Several centuries of history all under one roof
Along with Bruna’s studio, which features original furniture, tools, and mementos from his decades-spanning career, the Centraal Museum Utrecht will send you down all sorts of other historic rabbit holes.
Located in a former medieval monastery, its various nooks and crannies can be difficult to navigate, but that’s part of the charm. You never know what you’ll find around each corner or up the next stairwell. It could be a poignant temporary exhibit about nature’s never-ending struggle with humanity, a literally thousand-year-old boat, the works of Golden Age painters, or a modern art display that will leave you scratching your head.
Kasteel de Haar
Just outside of Utrecht, you will find Kasteel de Haar, the country’s largest castle which wouldn’t look out of place on a poster for an animated Disney princess movie. The neo-Gothic towers, moats, and drawbridges are straight out of a fairy tale, which has helped make it both a popular tourist destination and a great place to get hitched.
The castle’s history goes all the way back to the 14th century. Decades of neglect left it almost entirely in ruins before Baron Etienne van Zuylen van Nijevelt and his wife dumped a goodly chunk of their fortune into fixing up the place in the 19th century. Many of the castle’s 200 rooms are currently open to the public and you can also tour the gardens, check out the hedge maze, and dine in two restaurants.
The Rietveld Schröderhuis
One of the most unique homes in the country, the Rietveld Schröderhuis is an architectural wonder and a World Heritage Site. Designed in accordance with the governing principles of De Stijl, it boasts unusual windows and other features to help erase the barriers between inside and outside.
Needless to say, here’s also plenty of red, blue, and yellow scattered about. If you’d like to see it for yourself, the house is open to the public Tuesdays through Thursdays, but reservations are required in advance. Visit the website for all the details.
Where to eat (and drink)
There is no shortage of great places to eat and drink in Utrecht. Those in search of a quick bite to help them power through a trip to a museum or an afternoon of exploring the city’s boutiques should aim for Broodje Mario. It’s a universally beloved Italian sandwich stand that attracts everybody from Utrecht University undergrads to fashionistas with multiple shopping bags slung over their forearms.
Those who prefer more leisurely lunches should try the petite Rabarber or De Winkel van Sinkel. The quirky Luc is another good pick for lunch, as well as brunch or dinner. De Zakkendrager, open for lunch and dinner, is inside a former conservatory and overlooks a courtyard.
Brouwerij Maximus brews their beers with traditional copper equipment and it’s the place go if you’d like wash down a burger with a microbrew. Just interested in the beer? Try Kafé België, a fantastic, no frills Belgian bar. Sarban is an exceptional Afghan restaurant in a former wharf cellar along the Oudegracht. In the mood for Indonesian? Aim for Dapur Cinta.
Utrecht also isn’t lacking when it comes to cool coffee cafes. The Village Coffee & Music in the University District is still going strong. On a recent rainy afternoon, the staff were playing an old ZZ Top record while cranking out some of the country’s best lattes. They also have a second location in the Science Park.
Black Brew is a great spot to pound a flat white or tear into a toastie. They also have American pancakes on the menu. Dagger Coffee has three locations, one of which is in a repurposed garden house on the Zijdebalenstraat, and they source their beans from an eco-friendly and transparent coffee supply chain.
Where to stay
Unique lodgings in historical buildings are not in short supply in Utrecht. Eye Hotel was once the Ooglijdersgasthuis, a hospital that specialised in ophthalmology, and it doesn’t shy away from its history. The rooms feature eye charts and other decor that might encourage you to book an appointment at the nearest Specsavers. Court Hotel, as you may have suspected, is in a former courthouse.
The five star Grand Hotel Karel V has a rich history dating back to the 14th century and will give you the opportunity to have dinner in a medieval dining room. Those in search of other lodgings worthy of a royal might want to book a few nights at Hotel Beijers. It’s a former 17th century city palace within mere footsteps of Dom Tower.
The popular Anne & Max cafe chain recently delved further into the hospitality business and now has a boutique hotel on the Domstraat. There are also plenty of more modern hotels. Those who prefer conventional options can try the Crowne Plaza Utrecht.
How to get there
Reaching Utrecht Centraal by train is pretty straightforward and usually takes about 25 minutes from Amsterdam Centraal. The journey by car to Utrecht is close to 45 minutes but there are a lot of city centre parking restrictions. .
